Getting a professional to test the diamond is the simplest solution to the problem of determining whether a diamond is real or fake. With new better fake diamonds available, it is more and more difficult to identify a real diamond even for a professional with a jewelers’ loupes.  

While that may be true, there are still things that have to be considered and followed. If you are purchasing a diamond in a setting, check the metal stamp within the band: 10k, 14k, 18k, Pl, and similar markings indicating precious metal increase the odds of the stone mounted in the setting being real.

If you have a powerful magnifying glass or a jeweler’s loupe, examine the girdle-band and edges of the cut stone. A fake is indicated by soft, rolled edges. So does a clear, waxy-even strap where the facets get together and alter direction around the “belly” of the stone.

Use a jeweler’s loupe to check the stone for minute fractures, little flecks, and inclusions. These can be very difficult to imitate because they are created naturally and they are very unique. Natural diamonds are most valuable when they have the fewest flaws; unfortunately minor flaws, which are often allowed through, cannot be easily spotted by an amateur.

A common indicator is weight. Many of the materials that are used for fake diamonds are actually heavier or lighter than the real thing. In particular, the most well known fake diamond, cubic zirconium, is heavier. With a few diamonds and a professional quality scale, you can do some tests to compare the different cuts and quality.

Never try to scratch glass using your diamond. When checking jewelry for content do not use acid tests primarily used on metals. Don’t give in to your curiosity and try to smash a diamond because it will crush because it is a crystalline material.    If it is a diamond, and you breath on it, the moisture will disappear too fast for you to see it; whereas, with a fake, it won’t. Its only a hint, nothing else and its not definite. Be careful about composition diamonds, which have a base of one material and a table top made of diamonds, this will pass a diamond tester, but be relatively worthless.

A jeweler can tell you whether or not you got ripped off when you bought your “diamond”. That means you must choose your jewelers carefully, and then ask for documentation of each gem (each is individual and documentation can go a long way to establish the nature of your own stone). A professional jeweler, working with trustworthy sources, would be dependable, helpful, and capable of ensuring you an absolute grade of appraisal.

With no insult intended towards chain jewelers, think very carefully before going to one for an appraisal. Businesses such as these demonstrate the pros and cons of ass produced distribution and manufacturing. Chain jewelry stores while competent in themselves still will not give you the expertise of a higher end store or assessment business.

After you’ve found an appraisal service by searching online or in the yellow pages, make sure you thoroughly vet the assessor by looking at his or her experience, licensing and background. A licensed jeweler, a good journeyman in a traditional trade program, a former stone dealer — these are good indicators of skill.

If you are bringing in a stone, ask that it be tested in your presence  to avoid unscrupulous jewelers changing it out  . Turn around and walk right back out if you are refused. Request complete documentation if purchasing a stone. To know the real diamond is very difficult and even professionals think twice and look three times.

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